For many people, the word "Safari" is synonymous with Africa. In fact, often the first question people ask me after learning that I went to Africa was “Did you go on Safari?”. Um yeah, of course I did! Matter of fact, I went twice!
Going on two safaris may seem like overkill – after all, once you’ve seen a giraffe, you’ve seen them all, right? (Sorry, an inside joke – one of the people I traveled with said this in jest on our trip.) What can be so interesting about the animals that you’d want to spend nearly a week in total seeing them? Well, let me tell you.
If you’re reading this blog, most likely you’re already aware that I am a photography nut. That alone makes going on safari fantastic. From a pure photography standpoint, you’re in a car/SUV/bus/vehicle searching for animals all day. And what do you do when you find them? You shoot them. Preferably with your camera. You can stay in the same location, watching the elephants graze, hippos sunbathe, and lions mate (our guide on the second safari called it a very “special” time for them) for long periods of time. And since you’ve come equipped with a large zoom lens and teleconverter, of course you’re going to snap some shots, right?
But aside from the photography portion of it, there is something very grounding about a safari. In addition to photography, I love nature. Being outside with the rolling clouds, the views unencumbered by human influence, the smells of the flowers on the breeze, animals in a natural habitat unrestrained by iron bars -- there’s a connection that I get have with this world and my God when I’m in nature. I hope that doesn’t sound too cheesy or new-agey, but being in the natural elements reminds me of the grandness and creativity and attention to minute details that only God can have. It’s awe-inspiring and humbling and life-giving all at the same time.
Ok, enough of my introspective, spiritual ramblings. Back to the topic of safaris. Like I said, I was fortunate to go on two safaris. The first was a 5 day, 4 night stay in the Selous Game Reserve. The second was a 3 day, two night stay in the Mikumi National Park. They shared a number of similarities, both providing a healthy dose of scenic beauty and animals galore, but they were unique in themselves as well.
Although we only saw three of the Big Five (lion, leopard, elephant, rhino and buffalo), there was still an abundance of wildlife to be seen. Between the two locations, here's sampling of what we saw: Lions, elephants, buffalo, wildebeests, impalas, wild dogs (very rare), warthogs, crocs, hippos, zebras, giraffes, birds of all sorts... I'm sure there are others too, but I can't recall at the moment.
The first safari was booked through a company called Afriroots. It’s one of the few Tanzanian owned safari companies (most are owned by European companies). Tende, our guide and co-owner of the company, is a friend of a friend and that’s how we got connected. A little plug: I highly recommend these guys – super-knowledgeable, very accommodating, and a great value for the money. Plus, Tende is a really good guy. We had a blast on the safari, and he was a huge reason for it.
The Selous Game Reserve is about the size of Switzerland, and a great place for safari for a couple reasons. One, the Selous requires a much more a traditional style safari, meaning that you track the animals… Vehicles are allowed to go just about anywhere, so if your guide sees something, he can investigate without needing to stay on main roads. The second reason is the park is pretty empty of tourists, especially compared to its better known northern siblings, the Serengeti or Ngorongoro Crater. (I’ve heard great things about those parks – it’s teaming with wildlife, so please don’t think I’m knocking them. It’s because they are so great that they’re so popular.) The Selous was deserted in comparison -- based upon what we saw, there may have been a total of 10 vehicles in the entire park. It made for a true safari feel; we were in the bush with nobody else about.
In the five days we were there, countless memories were made and numerous stories to tell. A few of my favorites:
- Being in the park after dark (not normally allowed), sitting by a campfire (started by sparking the car battery), and watching the moon rise.
- Speaking of the moon, on the third night, there was a full lunar eclipse... as soon as the moon went dark, the Milky Way and stars were in all their glory. As my companions would have said, "Unbelievable!".
- Sitting in our Land Cruiser, surrounded by a herd of elephants, with no escape route...
- Sunset on the first night, watching the hippos splash, snort and soak in the river.
- Having bbq'ed impala from a sand barge in the middle of the river with cold beers, great friends, and a beautiful evening.
The second safari was also a great time, but different in a few ways. An obvious one was group demographics. The first safari was definitely was the kickin' with the boys. Beverages of all sorts were consumed and male bonding abundant. Good times, good times. But instead of 5 guys in their early 30's, our second safari was composed of 14 gals and 4 guys of all ages. But regardless of age, the enthusiasm and excitement to see the wildlife was the same by all. One of the best things on this second safari was people watching. I loved watching my friends light up anytime they saw a new animal. Their faces would explode with big smiles, and even with occasional bits of giddy laughter. I wish I could have caught some of that on film...
The animal behavior between the two parks were a bit different as well. The animals in Mikumi were more accustomed to the constant barrage of tourists, and therefore less likely to flee at the sight or sound of any approaching Land Cruiser. For example, in the Selous, the best photograph of a zebra I could get was of its striped hindquarters as it galloped away. But in the Mikumi, the wildlife mostly chewed their grass, staring back at us, as if we were the subjects of their own human safari. Of course, for photography, this was ideal -- it's always easier when your subject is sitting pretty rather than running away.
I guess the lesson I learned from doing two safaris is this: The bottom line is regardless of where you go, how much you spend, what you see and don't see, a safari is well worth the time and money. It's an amazing way to see natural beauty in both the landscape and the wildlife in Africa. And come to think of it, you can go on safari just about anywhere -- you don't need to be on a different continent to do it. Go on a hike. Go to the zoo. Go wherever you can submerge yourself in nature. You'll be all the better for it.