Life at Sea

When we departed from Ushuaia at 6pm local time yesterday, we were still in the Beagle Channel. In fact, it took 6 hours before we arrived at the Drake Passage. It is this body of water where east meets west: the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans collide, often creating notoriously choppy seas.

So with that in mind, one of the most popular topics onboard so far has revolved around seasickness. Many are pro-medication for prevention of seasickness, of which I am a badge (or in the case a patch) wearing member. There are also the folks who would rather not take medication unless they need it. And finally there are the people who would like to expereince it (Ronaldo). My choice is #1. I've been seasick before, and I would much rather skip the entire fiasco entirely. So I stuck my patch behind my ear, and so far the only symptom I think I am experienced is dry mouth. Dry mouth I can handle, vomitting, nausea I can not.

Today and tomorrow will be spent solely at sea. It takes two full days of sailing before we will see land again. So what do we do to pass the time? Aside from meals, there are numerous lectures teaching about different aspects of Antartica. For example, today's lectures were about the birds we will see, a historical lecture of the first people, a geology presentation, and the foodweb of the region. Each lecture is taught by extremely knowledgeable staff members who have a passion for their area(s) of expertise. But if education isn't your cup of tea, then you can start a card game, read a book, go to the deck and watch the birds float upon the winds, or simply sleep. Whatever you end up doing, be prepared to be patient for the next two days. Otherwise, it will be the longest 48 hours you've ever waited.

Since we've been in the Drake since midnight, the Orlvoa has been swaying in the rolling waves. Personally, it hasn't been unpleasant. It does make walking a concentrated effort and showering "entertaining". Even something like brushing your teeth takes some getting used to. I found that if I planted my feet shoulder width apart in the direction of the motion, I can counter balance quite effectively. The questions I'm currently wondering are how long it takes to get sea legs, and if I'll be walking differently once I set foot on solid ground. Guess I'll find out in a couple days.

After breakfast this morning, I walked outside on deck, and stood silently for a while, watching the birds follow the ship. There are black and white cape petrols, skimming along the water's edge, cutting in and out of the crashing waves. There are magestic wandering albatrosses, gliding on the breeze, whose wing spans can grow to be 12 feet wide. There was something relaxing, hypnotic about the entire scene. Of course, I haven't seen the big, burley seas yet. Life probably won't be so enjoyable then.

Merry Christmas!

Hi Everybody- Just wanted to wish you the merriest of Christmases. May your time be blessed with family and friends!

Embarking from Tierra del Fuego

Today was a day filled with two major events. The first was exploring (via bus) the National Park (albiet short) here in Tierra del Fuego ("The Land of Fire", named so when the explorers that "discovered" the area saw all the fires lit by the local natives), which is the southern tip of Argentina. And the second was to board the ship and finally embark for ANTARCTICA.

At 9am local time, about 30 of us boarded a tour bus. Winding through Ushuaia, we learned about the history of the area, the growing community, the skyrocketing property prices, and the difference in wealth between neighbors. Soon however, the landscaped morphed from homes and building to be replaced by trees, rivers, and Condor Mt.

As the bus rolled on, the tour guide explained the ecology of the area was out of balance due to the introduction of exotic fauna to the area. Rabbits, beavers and gray foxes, none of which are native to the Tierra del Fuego, have grown in abundance since there are no natural predators for this species. Now much time is spent by the park rangers trying to control the impact by hunting the beasts and destroying the beaver dams. The purpose for the latter is the top soil layer in the region is notoriously thin, creating a shallow root structure for the trees. When the beaver dams are built, the water backs up, creating a lagoon of sorts, and killing the trees.

Ok, enough downer talk. The area is beautiful -- similiar to Seattle in climate, geology, and lushness. I can see why the Tierra del Fuego is a popular destination in Patagonia. Even with the intrusion of introduced species, there is much life here, and now with little invasion by human hands.

The final stop we made on the tour was the "end of the road". It is the southernmost point in which you can drive a vehicle. From here on, you need to travel by an alternative if you want to continue moving. For me, it seemed appropriate. After all, this very afternoon, we were going to step foot onto a ship and set sail south for two days.

Upon returning to Ushuaia and eating lunch, the time came (FINALLY!) to board the ship that would be "home" for the next 12 days. The Russian ship is named Lyubov Orlova, after an actress. In Russian, Lyubov also means "love", so therefore we are traveling on the "Love Boat". As we boarded the ship, the sunshine burst through the clouds, eveloping the ship with bright rays of sunshine. As we pushed off the dock, a pack of seagulls, began to fly along the Orlova. It was as if they wishing us fond farewell for our grand voyage. At least, that's what I like to think.

Ronaldo and my cabin is a cozy, double room with a single port window. Both of us feel very fortunate for having it, since we both paid the price for triple occupancy. For reasons unknown (we think it's because they were able to sell all the spots on the ship), Quark Expeditions upgraded us to a double cabin for free. Score! The ship itself hold roughly 120 passengers, but doesn't feel too crowded.

I know I mentioned a bit on the people in my last post, but I thought I would try to go into it some more. There's a sense to me that it's a bit like an "international camp". Everybody is polite and social, but small social groups have already started to form. Most often they are between people who are traveling together (our Seattle crew for example). Nevertheless, I am trying to make a concious effort to meet some new people. I find that it's part of the fun of this type of trip.

So what did we do with our first afternoon aboard? We had a bunch of free time, and were welcome to explore the ship. We did have a couple mandatory activites -- one, a lifeboat drill, and second, a medical/health briefing. Other than that, we were left to our own devices.

First Southern Snow Sighting

For the past three days, I have had to repack every night, preparing to change hotels the following day. This day was no different. As part of the Antarctic cruise, we were provided with lodging at a hotel the first night. This hotel (Hotel Albatros) was about 7 blocks from where I currently resided. So I saddled up, and with a bit of pride, decided I would walk with my extra-heavy luggage through town to the new hotel. Navigating 2 large packs plus a backpack down a 2 blocks of steep cobblestone hills, all the while avoiding traffic and pedestrians made for some interesting walking. Plus a couple sore shoulders. But at least I didn't have to tell a taxi to drive me 7 blocks. I had way too much pride to do that. Besides, there was a certain satisfaction knowing that I could haul all my crap for a good distance.

Upon checking into the Albatros, I met the guy who would be my roommate for the duration of the voyage. Ronaldo hails from San Paulo, Brazil. And although he doesn't think so, his English is quite good, and we had no problem at all communicating with one another. We got along so well in fact, that we decided to go check out the Glacier Martial together. While trekking up the mountain, Ronaldo and I got to know one another better. We talked about family, work, course vs. curse (and other colorful "mispronunciations"), and even a little about religion. He is a good guy, and I'm fortunate that we can be bunkmates over the next couple weeks.

The Glacier Martial is a glacier at the foot of the Andes. With one ski lift, it provides outdoor activities to the town year round. During the winter, it's the local bunny hill for skiers. (Remember, only one ski lift). Then in the summer, the ski lift carries passengers to mid-mountain where the rocks and snow meet. By no means is this a glacier of epic proportions. Rather, the Martial is waning, the remains of what used to be a much larger sheet of ice and snow. But when looking down the valley, one is rewarded with a beautiful view of where the Andes fall into the BeagleChannel. And for Ronaldo, it was extra special since he had never seen snow before visiting the glacier. It simply doesn't exist in the tropics of San Paulo, Brazil. It was fun (always is) to see the enchantment that falls on a person who sees the white stuff for the first time.

The last thing of note that happened today was we had our first orientation meeting. Logistics were given (in various languages) and people got a glimpse of who they would be spending the next 12 days with. Our trip is pretty diverse -- by my unofficial count, so far I have met people from US, Canada, Brazil, England, Northern Ireland, Hong Kong, Taiwan, South Africa, France, Czech Republic, and Argentina. And those are only the people I've met so far.

Each of us has our own individual reason(s) for going to Antartica. The desire to see the bottom of the world. To set foot on the 7th visited continent. To experience a landscape and ecosystem largely untouched by humans. To steal a penguin. (Just kidding.) Whatever the resaons are, I think there is one common thread between us all. There is a bit of an explorer inside each of us pushing us to see this barren ice covered continent for ourselves.

 

One Step Closer to Antarctica

Since I didn't have internet access on the cruise ship, I am posting my Antarctica blog entries over the next few days. I hope that you enjoy them.

On a separate note, I hope that you have a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

Spencer

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Not much to report for today... My time in Buenos Aires had come to an end, and with a reserved anticipation, I packed up my bags, and headed to the domestic airport to fly south to Ushuaia. For all my flights so far, I have carried on a roll-on bag and large backpack onto the plane (and checking one large duffel). The reason for this was that in my backpack I carried my camera equipment, and in the roll on bag, I had a full set of winter clothes. The purpose for the latter was I didn't want to face the situation where the airlines would lose the cold weather gear I had for Antartica. In theory, solution of the carry-ons made sense. In reality, it was often a point of nervousness and stress for me. In the back of my mind, I was always concerned the luggage wouldn't fit in the overhead compartment or under the chair in front of me. But thankfully, I was able to either compact and manipulate each item into their proper storage location without too much hassle. in some ways it was almost like luggage Tetris.

Anyway, the flight from BA to Ushuaia was uneventful. I had a direct flight, arriving in my destination mid afternoon. After grabbing a bite to eat with Naomi and Carol, I walked the main drag and get a feel for the place. and then settled into my hotel.

Whenever I travel, I try to have an open mind, and keep my assumptions to a minimum. I find this allows me to see the town/people/food/experience with an unbiased eye, and draw my conclusions accordingly. Having said that, I don't have a perfect record -- Ushuaia was one of these exceptions. In reading about this place, I assumed that it was going to a be a small tourist town, existing only to serve the tourists and travelers who were visiting the Tuerra de Fuego and/or Antarctica. Once arriving in the city, I found that it was much larger than anticipated. There is a core "downtown" where most of the travelers stay, but the city itself has grown immensly in the past 20 years. The current estimate of the number of residents is 65K. Because of this massive growth, building and neighborhoods are being tucked into any available open space, squeezing the populace between the water of the Beagle Channel and the head (or tail) of the Andes mountains. In compacting all these residents and visitors together, there is an energetic bustle about town.

Even with the liveliness around me, since I haven't gotten much sleep over the past few days, I decided
to take tonight off, and just ease into my hotel room, download my pictures, and try to catch up on rest. I know I will have plenty of time to explore tomorrow.

Off the Grid

Just a short note- it's been a wait of almost 11 months, but I'll finally be boarding the ship for Antartica in a couple hours. There's imited satellite Internet connection aboard, so I'll try to post some mini-entries on the blog if I can, but most likely my regular novellas and pics will have to wait until I'm back in wifi coverage. Regardless, I'm excited to share the adventure with you, whether virtually or in person. So until I return from the white desert, take care and enjoy all the holiday parties for me!

Day Dos

Although B was unable to join me on this trip (don't you hate it when work gets in the way?), I'm not without travel companions. Three of my friends from Seattle are along for this Big 5Six adventure. (For one of them, it'll actually be her Bigger 6Seven trip. Antartica will be her last continent to have set foot on.) In the past I've journeyed solo, but in my opinion, like a meal, it is infinitely better to share the experience.

So on the morning of my first full day in Argentina, Naomi, Carol, and I met at Plaza St. Martin to take a bike tour through the south side of the city. Awaiting us was Xavier, a short, trim yet stocky gentleman and what looked to be a hodge-podge of bicycles recently allocated from your local garage sale. Nevertheless, we each chose our metal steed and donned on our helmets (safety first!).

I don't consider myself a cyclist, but I have ridden extensively through the US. And let me tell you, there is nothing in the States that matches the first 10 minutes of utter chaos that is biking in downtown BA in Monday morning traffic. Aggressive drivers + cobblestone roads + unfamiliarity with local bike ettiquette = harrowing experience. Regardless of the risk though, we pushed forward.

The tour itself was a great way to see the city. As we pedaled our way south, the architecture of the neighborhoods (and the level of wealth associated to it) began to change. The south side of the city is known to be rougher, poorer, edgier. But in the heart of this area is a vibrant neighborhood called "La Boca". With the brightly painted buildings, streetside tango buskers, and stalls of arts and crafts, this area attracts tourists like a Pooh Bear to honey. It was here Xavier gave us some time to get off the bike and wander the streets.

For me, the best part of La Boca wasn't the sight seeing. It was participating in a truly authentic Argentinian social experience: "mate" (ma-tay). Similar to green tea, Mate is a drink comprised of ground up leaves and hot water, and the flavor is strong and bitter. It is steeped in a cup often made of ceramic, wood, or most often, pumpkin. From the vessel, a metal straw with a strainer attached at the bottom runs from the vessel. Once steeped, the cup is given from the host to guest. The guest drinks from the straw and finishes the cup, then passes it back to be refilled and handed to the next participant. Xavier explained that mate was a very social experience- just friends sharing time and beverage together.

Once we finished the mate, we mounted up and headed back north. Buenos Aires is very flat, therefore the pedaling was at a leisurely pace. We finished at Plaza de Mayo. For those of you who either are history buffs and/or Madonna movie fans, you would like to know that the balcony which Evita addressed the crowds was in this very square.

After we had finished our tour, we decided to run a couple errands and grab a bite to eat. We ended up at the oldest cafe in the city. It's clientele was a balanced mix of locals and touritas. The decor was elegant, the food satisfying.

With our appetites quenched, the three of us decided to return to the hotel for a well earned siesta and meet later for dinner. Dinner in Buenos Aires tend to be much later than most Americans are accustomed to. The restaurants typically get busy around 10pm. With this in mind, we agreed to meet at 9. Unfortunately our first choice was closed, so by the time we arrived at the second choice "El Primo" (a parrilla recommended by Xavier) dinner was in the full swing.

Many parrillas will offer a "mixed grill" that a group can order -- various cuts of meat (primarily beef, but with some pork as well). Since Greg and I had not experienced this yet, we ordered it for the table. Included in the heap of meat were pieces of sirloin, ribs, ham, flank, skirt, chorizo sausage... tasty and popular picks. But the asado also included some less popular selections (by American standards) such as kidney, sweetbreads (we had the thymus/throat variety), and blood sausage. All of this is served on brasero, a charcoal fired mini-grill. I am proud to say that our table ate almost everything (and even like some of the "variety" meats). A quick review from me: 

Kidney- texture was like pork, taste similar to liver; I did not like it.

Sweetbread - texture and taste reminded me of pork tenderloin. I enjoyed it.
Blood Sausage - unlike it's European counterpart, it did not have much grain to firm up the sausage. Instead, it's consistency was like a dough type pudding, flavored with spices. It wasn't bad, but I wouldn't crave it either.

Overall, the meal was very good. Both the waitress and the owner were patient with their gringo guests, and we all left the restaurant with our bellies full. But as much as I hate to admit it, I was starting to get "beefed" out -- I had beef 3 out of  4 meals in BA so far. I was ready for something different. Fortunately, in a city such as Buenos Aires, you don't need to look to hard to find something delicious to eat.

The Journey Begins... (Day 0-1)

Hola from Buenos Aires! It is currently 6:15pm local time in Buenos Aires (update: it was 6:15 when I started this post). I've been in the country for about 30 hours, which incidentally is also the amount of time it took to get here. So to get us started, here's a recap of Day 1 of the Big 5Six.

Saturday morning, at 4am PST, dark and early, B and I braved the slick, frost covered roads and headed south to Seatac International Airport. Traffic was nonexistent (as was any daylight) so we quickly reached our destination. After checking in my luggage, we spent our final hour together for the next couple weeks over a warm cup of hot chocolate (me) and Mango-ey Odwalla (her).

Soon it came time for me to go through security and catch my flight. The first leg was to Dulles International Airport. It was uneventful, with the only surprise being the snow covered tarmac that welcomed our plane to the airport. Fortunately for me, it did not play any part in my second departure (7+ hours later) to Buenos Aires. After killing time by surfing the web, chatting with B on the phone, eating dinner, and watching a movie in the terminal, my fellow passengers and I boarded the 767 as scheduled. Ten red-eye hours later, we touched down in the flat, green lushness of Buenos Aires.

I've travelled around the world to multiple countries, and gone through multiple immigration and customs checks. I've learned the key to going through the process is simply to be patient. No matter how tired you are, as long as you expect the system to take another hour or so, you'll be fine. BA was a perfect example of this. They had three lines -- one for nationals, another for diplomats and families with young children, and the third for everybody else. Yesterday, when we arrived, the latter group was the largest by nearly triple. Yet they only had 3 custom agents assigned to our queue. In turn, the line snaked around the customs room. By far, it was the longest wait in customs I have experienced in the past decade.

Nonetheless, once through customs, immigration was non-existent, and before you could say "Nothing to declare", I was in a taxi heading to my hotel.

Buenos Aires has 13 major neighborhoods (I think). My hotel is located in the north side of the city, in areas called Palermo. Palermo is dotted with grassy parks, modern hotels and hip restaurants. Funny enough though -- these were not the reasons I chose the hotel. I picked it because it was ranked high on TripAdvisor and the price was right. Only later did I realize that I was in cool area. (Luckily for me.)

Anyway, once I arrived to the Dazzler Juncal, I quickly showered to wash away the "travel grime" that had accumulated over the last 8000 miles, and proceeded to go to the Recoleta neighborhood. Where Palermo is known to be a middle class area, Recoleta is known as one of the wealthiest neighborhoods. Perhaps the most well known feature of the barrio though is the Cementerio de la Recoleta. This cemetary encompasses mausoleums entombing many BA's influential families and powerful individuals. The most famost resident is that of Eva Peron, of "Evita" fame). Walking through the cemetary, one experienced equal parts of fascination and morbid curiosity.

When we finally decided to leave the cemented crypts and dusty coffins, we lightened the mood by strolling through the adjacent church and nearby art and crafts fair.

The last thing I wanted to talk about are the "Parrillas" of BA. These parrillas are known for preparing one of Argentina's best known products: BEEF. In this country, you never have to utter the question "Where's the beef?". Just look around, and you'll see/smell/taste it everywhere. We're not just talking steak either. We're talking about all parts of the cow. Offals (kidney, tripe, blood sausage) are prepared as often as the tenderloin steaks and beefy ribs. So it was fitting that my first two meals in the country were at parrillas. I had a rib-eye for lunch (and only a ribeye, no side) and a sirloin for dinner (with many, many sides). Both the steaks are flavorful and tender. Traditionally, Argentinians prefer their meat dry and well done, but many restaurants cater to the American tourist by cooking it to a medium rare. If there was nothing else in this country besides the beef, I would still love this place. After all, Argentina epitomizes "Beef, it's what for dinner." (Sorry, couldn't help using one more tag line.)

So there you have it... Day 1 of my southern adventure. It was a memorable day: I stepped onto my fifth continent, dined on delectable meat, and visited the final resting places of Buenos Aires' rich and famous of years' past. All in all, it was terrific beginning for the next fifteen days.